Face shapes

Happy new year!

Face shape is oft forgotten when hairstyles become trendy. The pixie cut, for example, flatters very few faces. I am not a hairstylist (I actually know next to nothing about hairstyles), but some general advice can be given. Let’s start, though, with the basic question: what face shape do you have?

The Rules

I like to keep this simple: long and short. I’m a lumper, not a splitter. The most typical descriptions are “oval” and “round” respectively. Other shapes have been defined by jawline and hairline, but they really are just variations on these two basic shapes.

  • You have an long face if your face is distinctly longer than it is wide. Variations include rectangular and oblong. You may have an “oval” face.
  • You have a short face if your face is roughly as long as it is wide – it ranges from literally round (like Ginnifer Goodwin) to more moderately short (like Scarlett Johanson). Variations include diamond, heart, and square. You may have a “petite” or “small” face.

Just pull your hair back in a ponytail; it should be evident to the naked eye, but measure if you must.

Styling the long face

Elizabeth Taylor

Elizabeth Taylor

The oval face is envied as the ideal face shape due to the “golden ratio” of proportions. Any shape of earring will flatter your face because you have both dimensions working in your favour. However, an earring that is not your specific face shape would be better – if your face is oval, opt for square earrings or triangular – we don’t want to echo your face shape. If your face is rectangular, opt for circular or oval earrings – your square jawline will be softened this way.

A hairstyle that adds width to your face is better than one that adds height – that would just echo the length of your face.  If your forehead is high, bangs can help to balance your face and your eyes. In my opinion a middle part flatters best because it maintains the balance.

Many famous women have long faces: Elizabeth Taylor, Kate Winslet, Grace Kelly, Jennifer Aniston, Heidi Klum, Angelina Jolie, Cher, Marissa Tomei, Gisele Bundchen, Rita Hayworth, Natalie Portman, Keira Knightly, and many others. Consider yourself in good company.

Styling the short face

Ingrid Bergman

Ingrid Bergman

I admit some bias towards this shape as I have a moderately short face. So sue me 😛 This section will be longer because we have more to contend with than long faces. Short faces tend to have fuller cheeks,  strong jawlines, small foreheads, and your mouth, eyes, nose, and cheeks all appear “scrunched together.” I’ve also noticed our noses tend to be longer and appear to extend further from the side, but that could just be me.

Two big clinchers regarding hairstyles: the part, and the cut. One: Wear a side part! Yes, I command you. I wore a middle part for years and I always hated my hairstyle; I moved it over and everything changed. I refuse to middle-part now. I wear a deep side-part in the style of Lauren Bacall.

Two: add height. Avoid any wide styles or side layers. You want to add height to your face because your face is small. My hair is long so most styles are difficult to impossible for me to easily implement, but I cheat by wearing heidi braids (Princess-Leia-Hoth style) or high headbands that mimic that style. It helps to bring out my cheekbones. Ironically, Carrie Fisher has a long face. Bangs can overpower your face. Long hair with curls below the chin can look fabulous.

Short faces are hidden beneath hair styles and cosmetics. Many women have this face shape, including the gorgeous Ingrid Bergman, Sofia Loren, Scarlett Johanson, Cameron Diaz, Ginnifer Goodwin, Kirsten Dunst, and Emma Stone.

 In sum…

Long faces achieve the golden ratio, so there is less work needed to flatter them. Short faces can easily appear wide so your hairstyles should always add height instead. Wear a side part on your best side to balance and add volume.